Interfacing the Fronts

Spent most of Saturday (and a whole tank worth of water) interfacing the fronts for the jackets. This is my first major variation from the pattern instructions. Typically, commercial patterns call for only the facing to be interfaced. However in the fusible tailoring technique that I'm trying the whole front of the jacket is interfaced. The interfacing is cut using the same pattern piece that was used to cut the front of the jacket. Here is a picture of the interface piece after cutting:

The interfacing I'm using is Pellon's 931TD mid-weight interfacing. I used this interfacing after creating a test by fusing several different types of interfacing to a scrap of my fabric. This allowed me to pick a type of interfacing that adds body without making the fabric stiff. I also folded the interfacing to make sure that it was not too bulky after folding which could cause problems when creating the seams and bottom hem.

You can see several things that have been done to the interfacing pieces. First, the dart material was removed from the interfacing. This will allow the darts to be formed in the jacket front without the interfacing contributing extra bulk to the dart. Second, the lapel has been cut along the roll line and 1/8" has been removed.; This will allow the lapel to roll along the missing interfacing and create a crisp lapel (or at least that is the promise!)

I also cut and fused the shoulder reinforcement to the jacket front near this shoulder.